Bulgarians call their traditional clothing the nosiya, and each one is said to be unique to its wearer, with styles that vary by region.
Garments and embroidery
Wikipedia lists a pinafore, skirt, apron, buckles and jewellery for women, and full breeches, a girdle, a vest and a shirt for men. Much of it was made at home from the National Revival period into the mid-twentieth century. Bulgarian National Radio notes that embroidery typically decorates aprons, tunics and shirts, with girls’ work appearing on necklines and sleeves. Placed at vulnerable points such as the heart, openings and sleeves, it was thought to guard against evil spirits and curses, and it once signalled social status and origin.
Symbols and colour
Common motifs include the Tree of Life, which represents the world in three levels, and the elbetitsa double cross, a sun symbol. Red was linked with protection and was once believed to ward off magic spells. A paper on Danube-region embroidery gives green for nature and growth, yellow for the sun and blue for sky and water.
A regional detail
In central regions such as Gabrovo and Veliko Tarnovo, married women wore the sokay, a headdress with a wooden base and an embroidered white scarf. A mother-in-law gave it to a bride as a sign of continuity.
Sources: Wikipedia: Bulgarian national garb, Bulgarian National Radio: Bulgarian embroideries and their symbols, Bulgarian National Radio: The magic of Bulgarian traditional embroidery, Bulgarian National Radio: Embroidery colours and patterns, ICDI conference paper: Bulgarian and Romanian embroidery.
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