Few textiles carry as much history as the pano di terra, or cloth of the land, woven in Cape Verde.
Origins and patterns
Cotton cloth has been woven on the islands since the mid-15th century, when skilled weavers brought from Guinea introduced their technique. Traditionally the cloth was indigo-dyed in blue and white, with geometric designs that blend Moorish and Hispanic influences with African weaving. Between the 15th and 17th centuries it was an important trade good.
Meaning and revival
On the islands, it was given to brides during marriage proposals, used to wrap the dead, and worn as a sign of mourning and status. Colonial authorities restricted its use in the 20th century because it represented African heritage. After independence in 1975, it was promoted as a symbol of that heritage, and a National Centre for Crafts was founded in 1977 to revive weaving.
Today
The cloth is now a symbol of Cape Verdean identity. Designers such as Fatima Almeida work with weavers to create higher-value slow-fashion pieces, though the author notes some tourist souvenirs are imitations.
Sources: Buala: Designing national identity through cloth.
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