In The Gambia, much of the story of traditional dress is told from the head down. Two accessories stand out: the women’s head tie and the men’s rounded cap.
The head tie
Gambian women call the head wrap a mousorr or moussor in Wolof, and a tikoo in Mandinka. In the past, different ties could signal a woman’s social or marital status and sometimes her religion. Today they are worn for faith, fashion and tradition alike, at weddings, naming ceremonies, funerals and in the workplace. Styles range from the Ankara head tie, often chosen by married women for ceremonies, to the simple everyday turban and the high puff wrap.
The mbahana
For men, the mbahana is part of the national dress and is worn with a kaftan. It is a round cap made by folding and stitching fabric into two layers, and it may be embroidered, patterned or plain. The wearer can shape it flat, pinched or puffed, which lets a little personality show.
A style worth borrowing
Both pieces show how a single accessory can carry heritage and individuality, and a bold printed scarf is an easy way to echo the idea.
Sources: My Gambia: Head Ties, My Gambia: Vivid Heritage.
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