Verified information on Guinea-Bissau’s fashion is limited, but cloth clearly has a long place in its story.
Cloth and status
Historical accounts describe social rank in Guinea-Bissau being visible in people’s clothing and accessories. Mandinka cotton cloth was among the goods traded between ethnic groups, and the warrior classes of the Kaabu kingdom grew rich on imported cloth, beads, metalware and firearms. In Cape Verde, Guinean captives wove panos cloth, which became a standard currency across West Africa.
A new generation
Adja Baio was born and raised in Guinea-Bissau, moved to Portugal and graduated in fashion design from ESAD. Her graduate collection, Pano de Pinti, draws on the traditional silhouettes, fabrics and vibrant patterns of Guinea-Bissau, combined with streetwear elements and a contemporary approach. Braids and hair are a central theme. She presented it at the Sangue Novo competition as part of MODALISBOA BASE, and describes her work as genderless pieces that fuse Guinean cultural references with streetwear and maximalism.
Sources: Wikipedia: Culture of Guinea-Bissau, Modalisboa: Adja Baio, ESAD: Pano de Pinti.
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